Meeting Sonam

May 14

Well... I got behind on the blog again. It's hard because I literally pass out when I lay down to sleep. Even if I try staying up and working on the blog ill get a paragraph done and then I wake up and I don't even know what that paragraph was supposed to say.
Anyway, I don't know if I've talked about exactly when I have and haven't showered but i haven't been everyday. I feel like I can look at it 2 ways. First way, I shower everyday because its hot and I get sweaty. Second way, there's no point in showering everyday if I don't feel totally gross and haven't sweated too much because I'm just going to get completely nasty in a few hours again anyway. Especially because half the time you don't have air conditioning so you sweat all night too. That may be totally gross but whatever. Also, there's no one in my group I care to impress and it's way too hot to even think about having sex with someone. The weather in Nepal has been much cooler than in India as well. I don't remember which one but there was definitely a city in India that I was so hot and sweaty I did shower both days we were there.
This morning I was going on Yeti Air to go on the Mountain Flight. It cost about $182 but you get to fly over all the mountains and see Everest. I charged it to my debit card so I didn't have to withdraw a million rupees. Plus, some of the ATM machines will only all you to withdraw up to 10,000 rupees a day. I figured it was worth the money since I'm in Nepal and I would feel silly going back and saying I was here but did not see Everest.
There are 10 mountains that are the highest in the world (according to sanam). 8 of them are in Nepal. One is in India and the other is in pakistan. Everest is 2 meters higher than it was originally. It has grown taller in the past 2 years. Maybe because of global warming, no one knows. It went from 8,848m to 8,850m.
We (Stacey, Martina, Michael, and I) had to go to the airport. Our flight was scheduled at 6:30am. We left the hotel at 5:30am (set my alarm for 5, jolted awake at 4:50 thinking I had slept through it). It took about 20 minutes to drive to the airport. Once we got there we paid the driver 600 rupees between the 4 of us and headed inside. The driver wanted to wait for us but the man at the hotel had told us we could get a cab back from the airport for cheaper so we told the driver he could leave. He wanted to stay and kept saying he was going to but we insisted he should leave.
The Kathmandu airport is both national and international. However, it is smaller than the Grand Rapids airport... By a ton. It is smaller than the area with all the check in desks and baggage claim areas at the GRap airport. Smaller by at least half of that, if not more. We saw Monica and Curtis with their Everest trek guide checking in at the airport. The check-in area is very small and just has a stand for each airline with a sign designating which airline the stand is.
We stood at the Yeti Airline stand, there was 1 or 2 people ahead of us, but then an airport security guy came over and told us we needed to pay an airport tax. Stacey explained to him we weren't leaving the country and he said we still had to pay it. I think she thought it was a departure tax.
We were directed to another small stand, well it is bigger than the check-in stands. It looked like a stand where you do car rentals in an airport at home. We handed the guy behind the desk our ticket and 200 rupees each and then got a different ticket from him that was stamped with the date. We then went back to the Yeti Airlines line. We handed him our printed confirmation ticket that the hotel had given us as well as the airport tax ticket and our passports and he handed us a ticket. He didn't take half of the airport tax ticket away which confused security a lot when we went through.
The line for security was pretty short. It wa also divided between men and women. We had to put our bags on the X-ray belt and walk through a metal detector. Then a security guard woman frisked our waist and legs. Then the waiting game began. It was about 6am. Stacey tried to buy a bottle of water and they wanted to charge her like 200 or 250 rupees for a small bottle. She said forget it (normally its between 25 and 75 rupees in Nepal)!
Speaking of water, I forgot I had water in my bag and they didn't take it from me at security. It wasn't even a problem. We didn't have to take our shoes off or take liquids or laptops out either.
Finally a little after 6:30am they announced our flight number and that we could line up for boarding. There is 1 screen in the airport with flight information which only had 2 flights displayed when we were there.
We were shuffled out a door onto a bus. The bus then drove us to the plane where we again were shuffled onto the aircraft. Everyone had a window seat. It was a smaller plane, maybe 20 people were on the flight. Before we took off, the flight attendant came by with a basket full of little candies and a bunch of cotton. I took a candy but I was unsure what to even use the cotton for. Later I realized most people were using it as ear plugs. I feel like it wouldn't help with your ears popping but maybe it does.
After flying for maybe 10 minutes, we approached the snow capped mountains. It was really beautiful. I don't really even know how to describe it. It was serene. We had been given a map that shows all of the mountains with their names (a panoramic photo) as well as a pamphlet about the mountain flight. While we were passing mountains, the flight attendant came around to all of us and told us what mountain we were looking at. She was super nice. I was really surprised at home slowly we were passing the mountains though because most of the time I thought we were way far ahead of where we actually were. While we were still on the first mountain range I thought we were already half way through! A lot of the mountains look similar or the same.
Finally, we started to pass Everest. It was still rather far away but you could make out the pyramid shape, which is the defining attribute of Everest. It isn't too much taller (at least from the perspective we were seeing it from) than the mountain next to it.
We all had a chance to go up to the cockpit as well and view the mountains from there. It was much clearer than through our windows.
The flight then turned around and we were passing the mountains on the opposite side but we were so much closer. I was on he left side of the plane (facing the cockpit) and the best side was clearly the right side. It was okay though. I got some video and some photos still. Stacey's head was in some of them though too.
We landed and headed back to the hotel. We tried to find a cheaper taxi and it was ridiculous! People were trying to charge us 700 or 800 rupees! We knew American Steve had found a taxi earlier to take him to the airport for 500 rupees. We just kept saying no we came here for 500. They kept telling us that it was a different way to get here than it was to get back and we just kept walking away and saying we would find another taxi. Finally we got one to agree on 500 rupees for the 4 of us. While we were driving he asked Michael if it was the same way we had come to the airport. Michael basically told him all the streets in Nepal look the same to him and he just gets in the taxi and has no idea if it was the same way or not. It was pretty funny.
We got back to the hotel around 8:45 am and I decided I was going to take a nap. I slept for 2 hours and it was amazing. Then, we were supposed to meet downstairs at 11am to say goodbye as a group. Z said a few parting words and most of us were staying so we went to lunch together. I had a Nutella banana pancake and it was so good. It was like eating a crepe from crepes-a-gogo in Aix. So tasty. Instead of being mixed in with the bananas inside though, the Nutella was spread on top of the folded pancake.
While we were eating, Monique and Elisabeth were trying to book a trek in the shop around the corner. I was really hoping that they would book the same trek a me so I wouldn't be alone on my trek. The day before, I had called the local number to confirm my trek as my voucher had told me to do. If i didn't confirm 48 hours ahead of time it said my tour may be cancelled. The guy didn't speak much English and he hung up on me the first time. I called back and all he said was to come to the hotel (the meeting place) between 10am and 5 or 6pm the next day (today). I asked if he needed my name and he said no and hung up. I was really confused. Then I thought that meant I was the only one on my trek. Elisabeth had told me before that she had heard it was dangerous to go on a trek by yourself with just the guide. I talked to mom and dad about it and they said I shouldn't go if I was the only one but that I should also trust my instinct and decide after I met the guide. Dad also emailed the travel agent, Anne, and she wrote an email back confirming I was the only one on the trek and that it is okay and that is how they are booked. She said they have been using intrepid for many years and there has never been a problem and people have enjoyed it. That made me feel better, but I was still concerned about being alone. I thought it might get really lonely or be awkward with the trekking guide. The girls ended up booking a trek for the Lang tang trail which would take them 7 days to complete. Guess I'm going trekking on my own!
After lunch, I went with Nick, Stacey, and Elisabeth to look for a hostel for them to stay in. We found the original one they were looking for which had great reviews but it was full aside from a common room which was full of bunk beds and they didn't want to do that. They wanted their own rooms. Plus, it was pretty far away from the main street. They ended up walking into a random hostel in town and booked a night there for 700 rupees per 2 people. That's about $4 each. Nick and Stacey stayed in a double and Monique and Elisabeth in another double.
After that, we walked to the Kathmandu Guest House around 1pm which was where I needed to meet my trekking guide. It seemed like it was going to take a while so I told the 3 of them they could leave and I would meet them for dinner with everyone else at Hotel Harati. I figured the hotel I was at could help me find a cab.
I wasn't really sure where to go so I went to the hotel check in desk and they seemed confused. I showed them my voucher and they brought me to the board for intrepid which is the agency my trek was booked through. There was nothing on the board about the trek so they sent me back to the entrance of the hotel where there is an intrepid office.
I walked over there and handed the man my voucher. He had me fill out a short information sheet. Honestly, I feel stupid I don't have my passport number memorized yet because I write it all the time. I'm sure ill have it memorized soon enough. He told me my guide would be here at 5pm and asked if I knew who I was meeting. I definitely had no idea who I was meeting so I sat there for a bit having no idea what was going on or why I was still there. Then, a nepali man walks in with a little purple backpack, a red hat, and a smile on his face. He sits down at the table and introduces himself as Sonam and told me he would be my guide.
We spent a while going over what to being on the trek. He said you don't need very much and we actually went through a list. The only things I needed from the list were toilet paper, a few liters of water, and a mask thing to cover my face. Later that day I went out on my own and bought this stuff for 360 rupees or about $4. I told him I was planning on taking most of the stuff out of my hiking bag, leaving the extra stuff at the hotel in my duffle bag, and bringing that along as my bag on the trek.
He wanted to see my bag and take me to my new hotel. This impressed me so much. Most people wouldn't be this kind. I'm pretty sure it wasn't part of his job description but I guess I'm not sure. He walked with me from the intrepid office to hotel harati where we got my bag. That was maybe a 10 or 15 minute walk. He offered to help carry it, which I said no thank you to the help because I'm embarrassed my bag is so heavy. He walked with me all the way to my new hotel, Hotel Thamel which was maybe a 15 or 20 minute walk from hotel harati. He then left me at the hotel and told me he would meet me here at 8am the next morning.
I had a few hours before dinner so I blogged and packed my bag for trekking (which meant taking everything out of my bag and repacking everything into the duffle or the hiking bag) and went and bought the few things I needed. Then, around 6:20 pm I decided to start heading to the hotel to meet everyone for dinner.
My original plan was to get a taxi. I asked the man at the door to the hotel how much it would be and he told me I should take a rickshaw instead because a taxi would be a lot of money. He thought a rickshaw would maybe cost 200 rupees. I started walking and saw a lot of rickshaws and realized that I had never gotten my own rickshaw. Z had always gotten them for us or I had been with at least a few other people when we found one on the street. I was alone now and had no idea how to know if the rickshaw was safe or not. Now that I'm thinking about it, I would assume it is no problem. At the time I just wasn't sure. I just kept walking. At this point, I ha already been to and from the hotel maybe 3 times total. I have no idea how I made it there, but I could remember what signs on the street looked familiar and somehow, I made it back to the hotel. I don't know I I should have been walking alone or not, but it was still light outside and the streets of Kathmandu are very busy. I figured if someone did something if I started making a commotion that it would be fine. I did ask a few people on the streets along the way to make sure I was going the correct way. Every hotel has a business card with the address and phone number and name (and sometimes even a little map on the back) for you to take with you.
On the way to the hotel I was stopped by 2 different men about how they wanted me to book things on my trip through them. One guy just followed me along the street and gave me his business card to give to my friends because I told him I had already booked a trek for my time in Nepal and I had to go because I was meeting friends. Another guy had helped me solidify I was still going the correct way and wanted to get me a map. He took me down an alley way and up some stairs and into a tiny office. I was like... Ok? Am I going to die now? But I saw legit office signs so I became less worried at that point. Him and his business partner gave me a map and explained directions to me which honestly didn't help because the streets of Kathmandu are like India. They weave an zig zag in and out and they all look the same and oy. He wanted me to sit down and talk about booking something and I told him I didn't have time but then he wanted me to just stay and talk. "Not necessary to book. Just listen." I explained to him I had a trek booked already and then I was going to Thailand and that I had to meet my friends for dinner now so I had to leave. Again, he gave me his business card to give to my friends.
Finally, at about 6:50pm I made it to the hotel. No one was in the lobby yet so I went next door to get some more money. Sonam said I needed about 10,000 rupees just to be safe for the trek.
The people in Nepal are all really nice. They all seem to want to help you and show you their country and take you places. It's very nice but its also a little strange at first.
I started getting worried no one was going to show up for dinner but a few minutes past 7, everyone showed up. Even people we didn't want to show up ha. There was a group of nepali boys some of the girls ha met on the streets in pokhara and I guess the girls had told them they would get drinks with them in Kathmandu to avoid going out with them. Julia had also told them our hotel in Kathmandu so they were there waiting. New Zealand Steve had also met a random guy in the restaurant at the hostel everyone else decided to stay at named Neils. He is Danish. He also speaks Norwegian and the girls from Norway spoke with him and told him it was our last group dinner to see if he would get the hint and leave and he didn't. He even mentioned it at dinner and was asking if it was an emotional time for us.
We ate at Nepalese Kitchen. Most people had dal bhat which is soup, rice, lentils and vegetables or chicken. I had momos and fried rice because I heard the only thing available to eat in the mountains is dal bhat. The momos were steamed and had spinach and mushroom in them. I like the mixed vegetable ones better.
Neils sat in the middle of our table and kind of split up the group. Solvei, New Zealand Steve, Caroline, Cecile, and I were at one end and talked to Neils the whole time. He had a lot to say. He talked about trekking the whole time basically because he has spent 2.5 months in Nepal doing various treks. He ha been away from home for about 9 months now traveling. He had a lot of interesting things to say.
After that, we walked to the Irish pub again to meet Z. I didn't drink because I had to be up early to trek in the morning. A lot of people, including Nick, got White Russians. A number of the European girls had never had one before!
After that, I said bye to everyone and Z got me a cab. I paid 200 rupees for it. It was kind of strange saying bye to everyone. I had been doing everything with them for the past 2 weeks and all of a sudden it's most likely ok, see ya! Have a great life!
A few things I noticed in Nepal:
1. People hack up something all the time. It's the grossest thing ever. I don't know if its just spit or what. It's men and women and I don't think it's because they're chewing but I guess I'm not sure. Honestly it sounds like they're dying. It is nasty.
2. All the cab drivers in Kathmandu put welcome mats on their back seats to make them more colorful maybe? I don't know but they're pretty uncomfortable to sit on with all the bristles.

Here is some information about the people in my group:
1. Elisabeth. I roomed with her. She's 21 and from Norway. She always has a million things to drink at restaurants like water, tea, and a lassi or sprite or fanta. I have already talked about her a bit in my blog. She always has an opinion on everything.
2. Marianna and Solvei. They are 19 and they are good friends and traveling together. They are also from Norway although Marianna is also Brazilian because that is where her parents are from. They have spent a month in Sierra Leone volunteering to teach English and then 3 or 4 months traveling through Southeast Asia. They are heading home now. Marianna is really good at the guitar and writes her own songs as well. She is auditioning for a music school in Copenhagen in January.
3. Monique. She is 26 and she is from New Zealand. She has traveled a lot and ha a lot of interesting stories. She spends most of her time with Marianna and Solvei. She is very outspoken. She was in the south of India with friends and then spent a week in Sri Lanka by herself and is moving to London soon.
4. Stacey. She is 25 and is from Canada. I really like Stacey. I've talked about her already as well. She is an HR person at the company she works at. She does a lot of recruiting for the company. She only did this trip.
5. Caroline and Cecile. I'm not sure how old these girls are. I think 19 or 20. They are Danish. They are both pretty funny and I really liked talking to them. They spent a lot of time with the 2 of them though. They are traveling together. They were in Sri Lanka and then they are going to Bangkok after their trek. They are doing a trek from pokhara to a mountain range that starts with a G.
6. Julia. She is 20 and she is from Germany. She is funny but she is also not very adventurous with her food. She ate a lot of rice. She is doing close to the same route that I am for traveling. Maybe I wil run into her again! She also takes more pictures than I do.
7. Michael and Martina. I think they are 38. They are from Austria. They are both hilarious. They had vacation from work and came on the trip. Martina is a doctor. She is getting her radiation degree now and she is a GP now too. Michael works at this company that burns garbage and uses it for electricity and heat. It sounds pretty cool. They are headed back to work.
8. Curtis and Monica. They are 29 and 28 and from Canada. Monica is a counseling psychologist and Curtis works at a brewery. They were really fun to talk to as well. They have traveled all over the place and have been together for the past 8 years and are recently engaged. They have a destination wedding in November on the Dominican Republic. They were going to trek part of Everest and then head to the south of India and spend 3 weeks in Goa.
9. Steve. He is 31 and is from America. He was born in Missouri but he now lives in California with his new bride. The week e left for this trip he literally graduated med school and got married. He said it was the best week of his life. He is also in radiation but he did his GP med school degree. He is heading home.
10. Steve. I have no idea how old he is. Maybe 25? He is from New Zealand and it actually took me a while before I could understand him. He spends a lot of time looking for or on drugs though so I'm not sure if that helps. He works as a manager at his dads store which is a large supermarket in New Zealand. He said he doesn't really travel and he was heading home after this trip as well. He was constantly going back to people's houses in India and Nepal (that he met on the street) and he speaks a little Hindu. He always tried to speak to the Nepalese people but they don't understand Hindu. He got a huge tattoo of Buddah on his neck in Nepal. He's a character.
11. Nick. He is 25 I think and he is from America... Alaska specifically. He works construction so when he isn't working he had a ton of time to travel. I already mentioned his travel plans for the next few months.
Those are the people I spent 15 days with from Delhi to Kathmandu!